The Dish - 10.27.09

Edited by Beth A. Clayton

Ambrosia Centro (15 E. Maryland St., 225-3096), the second location of the Broad Ripple-based Italian favorite which opened last week. Though the menu is essentially the same as at the original, the interior here is far more elegant and subdued, with rich, burnt orange walls bathed in candlelight and a double-sided roaring fireplace separating the main dining room from a smaller one. An appetizer special—prosciutto-wrapped shrimp—had a lovely char-grilled flavor, and the caprino, a platter of goat cheese topped with a rosemary cream sauce and served with herbed crostini was so delicious we were sneaking bites of the remaining cheese long after the crostini were gone. Our waitress skillfully helped us select a bottle of wine (we went with the 2006 Laetitia Pinot Noir) to go with entrees of veal piccata in white wine lemon sauce, and a particularly memorable beef tenderloin, smothered in black peppercorn brandy cream sauce. For dessert grab a perfect cube of cool and creamy tiramisu.